Friday, 28 September 2012
Thursday, 27 September 2012
Assemblage
Soo... today seems to be update day. The putty has cured and i could finish the leg to hip joint which means i could finally fit legs and torso together here's some hastily taken phone snaps;
Its not glued just free standing which is why it may be a little shake looking. I'll do an edit later with better photos.
MK1 hunchback for comparison
MW4 concept head vs the CBT
Its not glued just free standing which is why it may be a little shake looking. I'll do an edit later with better photos.
MW4 concept head - done
While I wait for some putty to cure, I finished off the MW4 concept head.
I realise now the beauty mole on the wrong spot and its too big so I'll fix that in the next clean up. I still cant decide whether to add that window frame divider on the side or leave as is. Your thoughts?
Other than that I'm pretty happy where this is at.
I realise now the beauty mole on the wrong spot and its too big so I'll fix that in the next clean up. I still cant decide whether to add that window frame divider on the side or leave as is. Your thoughts?
Other than that I'm pretty happy where this is at.
Postie where for out thou postie?
Play halted until postman delivers Ball bearings and glue :/
I have finished the MW4 HBK concept head it looks very swish but not quite ready to show it yet because it looks like a mottled mess of different colours and materials. It needs a final pass with green stuff filler and a sand to sharpen it all up then some primer to make it complete.
I've also start to get the bicep ready to blank cast adding the details to the shoulder and making the attaching point to the torso and a joint for the forearm. Again it needs a bit of primer and some light sanding to tidy it up. The black pen marks show where i intend to grind a groove. But i need to cast it in resin first because the master isn't strong enough to take it.
I've also made a small amount of progress on CBT/MWO forearm. but its something I tinker with while I'm waiting on other things to cure.
Update -
Well before i even finished typing this update the postman came bearing (bought) gifts yippy! I'll finally get to finish the legs masters I just need to putty the joint and drill some holes and cut 2 slots;
I have finished the MW4 HBK concept head it looks very swish but not quite ready to show it yet because it looks like a mottled mess of different colours and materials. It needs a final pass with green stuff filler and a sand to sharpen it all up then some primer to make it complete.
I've also start to get the bicep ready to blank cast adding the details to the shoulder and making the attaching point to the torso and a joint for the forearm. Again it needs a bit of primer and some light sanding to tidy it up. The black pen marks show where i intend to grind a groove. But i need to cast it in resin first because the master isn't strong enough to take it.
I've also made a small amount of progress on CBT/MWO forearm. but its something I tinker with while I'm waiting on other things to cure.
Update -
Well before i even finished typing this update the postman came bearing (bought) gifts yippy! I'll finally get to finish the legs masters I just need to putty the joint and drill some holes and cut 2 slots;
Tuesday, 25 September 2012
Hows this look
Hows this looking.
I'm waiting for the putty to set before attempting to add the side windows and smooth everything up.
Other than that I've been light sanding all the parts and order some 6mm to 10mm ball bearings I plan to make a ball socket joint at the hips
I'm waiting for the putty to set before attempting to add the side windows and smooth everything up.
Other than that I've been light sanding all the parts and order some 6mm to 10mm ball bearings I plan to make a ball socket joint at the hips
Monday, 24 September 2012
freshly set of minted leg blanks
And here we have a fresh set of minted leg blanks, free standing no glue.
These aren't a finished product. I still have to add the left and right knee pads to the calf and the boxes to the thighs. But it feels so good to see a pair of legs I thought i share. This stage is my favorite you start to feel your on a down hill run after weeks of incremental work.
Another thing I'm feeling is I want to redo the MW4 head. The concept design David White is far more attractive than what ended up in game. Its a tricky structure to build with windows on a narrow angled edges. I'll have a bash at it otherwise its the MW4 chipped block.
These aren't a finished product. I still have to add the left and right knee pads to the calf and the boxes to the thighs. But it feels so good to see a pair of legs I thought i share. This stage is my favorite you start to feel your on a down hill run after weeks of incremental work.
Another thing I'm feeling is I want to redo the MW4 head. The concept design David White is far more attractive than what ended up in game. Its a tricky structure to build with windows on a narrow angled edges. I'll have a bash at it otherwise its the MW4 chipped block.
Saturday, 22 September 2012
12days already
Wow cant believe its been 12 days since my last update. I'm focused on getting the legs 100% so i can cast them which will then let me set the joint for the hip so everything sits level. I also added some details to the CBT head and arms.
Monday, 10 September 2012
Torso primered
Today we have some torso shots. The purpose of the primer is to show up any flaws before a mould is taken.
As you can see there's a fair bit if tidying to do (sigh :p). You'll notice also I've left off a small box section on the rear back pack and there 2 locator holes in its place. This is because it would trap air so I'll be casting it separately to be glued on using the locator buttons.
As you can see there's a fair bit if tidying to do (sigh :p). You'll notice also I've left off a small box section on the rear back pack and there 2 locator holes in its place. This is because it would trap air so I'll be casting it separately to be glued on using the locator buttons.
Saturday, 8 September 2012
Armorcast Madcat
Look what I dug up -
Its an old Armorcast kit. If i make a clan lance I think I know the colours I want to use I just need to find a Clan unit that use those colours in the lore
Its the off white, grey, yellow/orange that's in this image
Can any one help me out naming a unit that wears those colours. Answers in the comment or email too;
On another note I pinched a nerve in my neck so I can't work on the HBK MK2 today hopefully it'll subside by tomorrow.
Its an old Armorcast kit. If i make a clan lance I think I know the colours I want to use I just need to find a Clan unit that use those colours in the lore
Its the off white, grey, yellow/orange that's in this image
Can any one help me out naming a unit that wears those colours. Answers in the comment or email too;
On another note I pinched a nerve in my neck so I can't work on the HBK MK2 today hopefully it'll subside by tomorrow.
Friday, 7 September 2012
Legs and head
Heres some of the foot, shin and MW4 style head.
Click to enlarge
Its their first coat of primer it purpose to show up any defects before casting As well as the usual removing of snots (putty blobs) and a few seams, I can see the rear of the shin needs some attetion to sharpen it up.
The shin piece is a blank there is a left and right handed knee pad detail to be added once the part has been copied.
The AC is fitted to the torso but I couldn't primer it because the putty is still setting so pictures another day
Thursday, 6 September 2012
Progress
Progress today
I decided to get stuck in and do the scary parts you know the bit where I take my fragile bits and a big drill press and make some holes.
This was progress this morning. Although its hidden I drilled the torso to hip joint hole. Might not sound like much but it has to be right or we get a hunched hunchback :P
This hole was stalling progression on the Torso with it in place i could add the side torsos, and 'back pack'
I've gotten more done since that photo was taken but I need to charge the camera.
I've finished (more or less);
Shin blank (ready for casting so i can make it left/right handed)
AC20 ready to be fitted to the torso
Foot which looks awesome
On tomorrows to do list;
Torso guns barrels
Gearing ring on the bicep
Thigh details and hip joints
Shoulder joints
Tidy the forearms up
I'll shoot some primer on the lot and grab some photos.Then its snagging and moulding and hopefully will see a complete pair of sexy legs in the near future.
I've got a joint set in the post that I'm waiting for to finish the arms. I'm hoping it'll clear customs by end of next week.
As for an update on CBT, IIC variants. The CBT is going to take a 2nd priority while I wait for a few parts. The IIC variant is going on the back burner till i have the time to work out how to flip the AC20 not as simples as I first thought. The main issue is i have to make it look identical to the other side which might mean ordering a 2nd set to be laser cut (hind sight 20/20 i should of added that to the original order doh!)
Lingo buster:
- Blank - A part brought to the point where it can be cast and then made into a left or right handed asymmetrical part.
- Left or right handed - a part that is a asymmetrical mirror of its counter part
- Detail - small cosmetic feature to and interest to a part (hatches, vents, rivets, etc)
Wednesday, 5 September 2012
Hitting the wall
I'm hitting the wall with the HBK mk2 there's lots of fiddly jobs that need to be done and done in order and its just leaving me spinning my wheels.
It's mainly the thighs I'm going to need to mould the ambidextrous part before I carry on but its an awful hassle make a mould just for 1 piece so i need to finish up a few more parts to mould as a batch.
I also have to add a perfect level hip joint (its the bane of my life i tell you) have you ever tried to hang 2 pictures next to each other perfectly level? Now imagine trying to do the same but there on opposite sides of the same wall /joy
The rest is sanding which is messy process so hardly motivating
#moan :P
It's mainly the thighs I'm going to need to mould the ambidextrous part before I carry on but its an awful hassle make a mould just for 1 piece so i need to finish up a few more parts to mould as a batch.
I also have to add a perfect level hip joint (its the bane of my life i tell you) have you ever tried to hang 2 pictures next to each other perfectly level? Now imagine trying to do the same but there on opposite sides of the same wall /joy
The rest is sanding which is messy process so hardly motivating
#moan :P
Reducing the weight with - Fillite filler
When i make assault size mechs I hit a problem in logistics. The problem being postage climbs steeply after you go over the 1kg mark. Not one likes paying shipping so i embarked on a way to try and reduce shipping weight.
There's a few methods
Clam shells - Cut the larger parts in half hollow them out turn hem into 2 'clam shells'. This is what armorcast did and imo probably the best results. There's a catch though, you have to cut the master in half (that's very risky) or take a mould of the master and then cut that in half mucho expensive (I dont have the economies of scale to make it work)
Rotary casting - this where you put in a small amount of resin in the mould and spin the mould on all axis evenly coating the mould and leaving a hollow centre. Lots of commercial processes use this. But there are draw backs its not pressure cast, the apparatus is expensive, complex and bulky, its hard to get right 100% of the time (for an amateur like me). So too much hassle for the likes of me.
That leave fillers specifically Fillite Powder. I'll copy paste what it is;
The fillite gives the resin speckled colour. The torso came out at 300g compared to the 360g of pure resin version. That was a conservative mix so i could probably get the weight down even more.
Rough maths means a 1kg mech could be taken down to 600g which results in a 25% saving on postage costs according to the postage calculator.
It also has another benefit on models that are top heavy (mainly chicken walkers). I can fillite cast the top half while pure cast the legs making the model much more stable!
There's a few methods
Clam shells - Cut the larger parts in half hollow them out turn hem into 2 'clam shells'. This is what armorcast did and imo probably the best results. There's a catch though, you have to cut the master in half (that's very risky) or take a mould of the master and then cut that in half mucho expensive (I dont have the economies of scale to make it work)
Rotary casting - this where you put in a small amount of resin in the mould and spin the mould on all axis evenly coating the mould and leaving a hollow centre. Lots of commercial processes use this. But there are draw backs its not pressure cast, the apparatus is expensive, complex and bulky, its hard to get right 100% of the time (for an amateur like me). So too much hassle for the likes of me.
That leave fillers specifically Fillite Powder. I'll copy paste what it is;
Fillite is a glass hard, inert, hollow silicate sphere. Fillite is primarily used to reduce the weight of plastics, rubbers, resins, cement, etc., but also imparts further benefits in many situationsSo its teeny tiny glass bubbles dust. This was my chosen option because;
- Its cheap
- Its the same process as resin
- It makes the resin as much as 50% lighter while adding strength
Left pure resin - Right fillite/resin
(click to enlarge)
The fillite gives the resin speckled colour. The torso came out at 300g compared to the 360g of pure resin version. That was a conservative mix so i could probably get the weight down even more.
Rough maths means a 1kg mech could be taken down to 600g which results in a 25% saving on postage costs according to the postage calculator.
It also has another benefit on models that are top heavy (mainly chicken walkers). I can fillite cast the top half while pure cast the legs making the model much more stable!
Monday, 3 September 2012
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