Getting rusty

Throwing you guys a bone if you're still reading. Rust base coat is laid down. I have a new chipping medium recommended to me but I need to do some tests on that black junk torso you see on the right. I need to see if paint can be over night and it still come up and if masking tape will picking up the paint etc

Also for those that have sent emails I have read them I do keep track and I will answer you at some point.

Merry Christmas and happy new year

Lost a bunch of weeks to reallife

Hello

Any one waiting for news I sorry I lost a bunch of time to real life.

Long story short my eldest son (4years) was due to start school but admissions tried to deny his application. Frantic legal battle ensued to get it changed before the school cut off date. We won but it the only thing I focused on the last few weeks.

So as it stands I'm not much further. At some point this week I'll get some more photos up I did take some just now but they look a blurry dark mess.

Any way feels good to get to the end of the list. Off to the garage at some point to dust down and undercoat.

I've also done some admin I have some more shipping boxes (slightly bigger boxes this time too) so I can sort out my casts, see how many I have and if there is any extras left over.

Just alittle more and on to paint

So it was a lot of parts to rub down with over 36 pieces it takes a while to remove all the pour stubs and fill any dings. Resin sanding isn't the most fun job in the world the dust clings and it very fine I struggle for motivation. After that I test fit all the parts all resin shrinks slightly the bigger the object the more it'll shrink. So what's need it too dry fit.

Any parts that are having trouble fitting together I check for;

• Snots (bits of erroneous resin) if I find I'll clean off 
• If it's pulled out of shape (differences it thickness main different shrink rates) I put the 2 halves into hot water till the resin softens then squeeze the parts together under the hotwater till they marry up then run them under cold water to reset.

Then all the parts get the dust washed off them and the undercoat, then I glue the half's together. Then its final test fit. Any bad joins or gaps are filled/sanded I make sure everything moves smoothly and fits flush. Then the rest of the model is pinned and glued into their main parts ready of a final dusting and undercoat. I'm almost that this stage just need to work the hunches so they sit flush, some gluing, adding magnets and off to paint yippee.

Still alive just being a busy beaver

Not posted an update as there's nothing exciting to show. I'm continuing to assemble PGIs HBKs cleaning up the castings messy work and a lot of parts to this model. Hoping to get this cleaned up asap and on to paint as I hate all the dust in my office. I lost a few days because the temp dropped to below zero and the workshop leaks heat at too fast a rate, we had the mother in law staying with us, I was assured it would afford me extra days but I ended up being chauffeur/tour guide.

Fun facts: the HBK and all its variants weights in at 672g compared to the 479g of the Cent this is due to the fact the hunches make up a 1/3 of the torso and there's 5 of them. I had 3 moulds break on me during casting. 17kgs of silicone went into making (and remaking) the moulds.

Other than that the Leo thrusters (left and right) are coming along the intakes are machining now and just a detail piece left to go and I can assemble them.

Above the roughing stage, I'm currently on the 1st finishing pass running at 20% speed over night because there's so many thin sections the back is only about 2mm I didn't want to risk chipping anything and it makes no difference it if runs to 3am or 9am.

Leopard - Trusters

While I get on with casting the HBK, the extra space lets me also run the MDX-40A. I've started the first part of 5 that makes up the left thruster.

About 6hrs machining left remaining here.

I'm still searching for some one who'll either rent me or cut for me some boards widths needed for some of the parts. Google failed me I think it'll just be driving around to various workshops hoping some one takes pity.

Santas workshop

Now that the car is gone for a few months the workshop has tons more work room.

left to right;
Roland MDX-40A , Compressor, vacuum cleaner, Laptop, Bandsaw, Drill press.

When the car is in it stops just short of that line of underlay on the floor. I've raised laptop to save it from spills and accidental key presses which also claims back bench space. The shelves are deep and cast shadow onto the bench so I've added some rope light. I bought a tool chest topper for some nice smooth draws. I need to swap the bits'n'bobs rack to the centre of the desk so I can move the band-saw to the right to eek a tad more space. I want to put another hole in the work top to pass plugs/power cables trough so they don't have to go over the bench top.

Here's the casting station. 

left to right: vacuum/pressure chamber, vacuum pump, pressure chamber lid, drill for speedy sealing, moulds, resin, scales, spare vacuum seal and a heater (important for shop not to be cold when casting). On the floor I've put down some left over underlay to help with standing fatigue. I'm going to try an find a fold out stool because standing all day sucks.

In the future I hope to knock down the garage and build a much bigger one (with space for the car and a workshop) but for now its home.

hey a look whose nose is running, what? don't see it wait till I sneeze looks like something out of alien

yes I really where all that stuff to cast, except the ear defenders that's because the MDX40-A is running in the background. It's not fun to wear but life only gives you certain amount of body parts you have to look after them.

Rockem & Sockem - MWO Hunchbacks 1:60 Scale

Just in time for #HunchieHalloween, I have a trick and a treat for you.

'In the yellow corner we have Rockem 

and in the blue corner we have Sockem'

Specs;
Machined on a Roland MDX40A 4axis mill
Cast in resin
And painted buy your host
Photographed by some one who wished he hasn't bought such a complicated camera.
Sucked out of the digital ether and made real into the physical realm
1:60 scale
Standing at just under 17cm tall 
Seen sporting the classic AC20 candy dispenser that's bound to make your foes weak at the knees

Click for full resolution

Click for full resolution

Good fright good night mecha-minions

HBK - Last little touches for these two

Just finishing off the last few touches (lasers n lenses) left to dry over night. In to the mini studio photos tomorrow.

Hoping to get my camera set up right for the studio, always seem to have focal problems kinda wish I bought a more automatic dlsr, I don't use them enough to become competent :/

Two mechs one post

Here are two mechs ones blue and ones yellow. Why blue, because my son likes blue. Also I'm covered in masking tape.

I'm running out of things to say can you tell? I should let those AC20's do the talking.

Are you bored yet? #hunchiehalloween

Sacré bleu

Nop I didn't repaint Mr. Banana this is another HBK (are you sick of them yet?). To save time/mess I'm painting them as a pair the only difference will be the main colour weathering shading are the same.

French blue this time if you haven't guess these are painted to stand out so you can see the details. I'll add the stencil work tomorrow. Hey the blue covered up all that yellow on my desk :)

ps can you guys spot the 2 bits of masking tape I missed pealing on Mr. Banana in the last photo? (I noticed while masking up Monsieur Bleu)

Mr. Banana I hope you have sunglasses!

Red ones might go faster, but yellow ones go bananas!

I love pulling off masking tape. Its like Christmas day, opening coffee and fishing out a booger all rolled into one. It takes considerable will power not to pick at it. Impatiences drives me and it itches my brain to leave the masking tape alone, so it's a good morning when you get to pick it all off!

After the euphoria of pulling the tape,  I can't help feel a pang of panic. The colour at this point always looks fake/plastic. But I have to remind myself with shading, weathering the colours will subtle and blend.

Yellow for the first time

and probably the last time.

For a while I wanted to paint a yellow mech. But I know how weak yellow is as a pigment is so I've avoided it for personal projects (where I'd was a lance in the same colour).

I didnt want to put a white or red base coat down as i would be using solvent to weather the paint (since my chipping medium was delayed). I used citadel yellow base as a base and model air yellow to get it to pop

 

I think in the end its was 4x yellow base and 2/3x yellow to get the pigment down so for that I'm glad this is a one off.

Didn't help that it seems all the new citadel paint pots happen to dry out in under 12months and I need to save it with paint thinner and strain it (not happy about that).  Seems GW has designed shelf life now where some paints (bright accents etc) might happily sit for 10+years GW decided to force people to rebuy. The main reason I've been replacing my paints with Vallejo.

Masking - HBK

Its probably been written about before but after the base coat goes on the bits I want to stay metal are masked off. It takes some time (about an afternoon) but its less frustrating than trying to get paint out of all the crevices its also faster/crisper than repainting on the metal.

To help me out I make a guide for myself its easy to get lost on a big model and nothing sucks more than realising you've painted something you wanted to keep bare metal.

I use the MWO textures as a guide but personal preference I don't like to much metal on show so often I'll paint it.

I use tamiya 6mm masking tape since its semi transparent and comes in a handy dispenser. I also have some normal size low tac tape (the blue stuff) and a few 2mm and 3mm for detail masking (personal tip get the paper versions not the vinyl it bleeds). Sharpe blade trims the excess, tooth pick/dental probe for poking and back of a brush to press it home. Also if you don't tape to stick to you or your tools wet/damp them.

If you're wondering the colours I use for the base coat I've change it some;

• Black spray primer
• Tin bits, gunmetal - dry brushed
• "Lifecolor Acrylics LC-CS10 Dust and Rust Paint" - 1-4 rust airbrushed on
• Clear coat

I moved away from orange washes, since I bought a more reliable airbrush (less jamming) and washes can be hard to control, takes while to dry and make a mess.

So for the next week I'll be finding bits of yellow masking tape stuck all over me.

HBK leg comparison

I've be putting together 2 more HBKs for paint and I thought I'd take a quick snap to show side by side comparison of how the lower leg articulation works.

The hunchies legs are made with ball joints for the hips, ankle and an arch for knee. The basically lets you set a pose in however you like. Above you can see one it more classic robot straight the other is more at ease I'm not that adventurous what leg posing I'm more concerned with stability and a level hip joint with a forward rake.

Most of my designs use this method of leg design and after making a few I thought I'd write out what process I found to be best. You should find a hard flat surface that's out of the way to do this for me its the far corner of my pc desk as its not likely to get bumped or knocked. I also like to glue the legs just before bed time. I'd like to say its because it means the kids are out of the way but to be honest its because it stops me from tinkering with it while the glue sets.

• First I like to test fit everything and compare it to how the in game models stand. A lot of the MWO designs don't have a locked knees but stand with the leg bent so its good to check. I design the legs to stand in this pose more or less with as much articulation as I can get without chopping out large sections of model. On legs that are really counter intuitive I add reference pencil lines
• Then I drill pin wholes in the alignment I want then counter sink those holes to get some wriggle room. I put wire into the hole and bend the wire until it all sits correctly, the pins and friction should hold everything together at this point and you can make tweaks to get it how you want it.
• I glue one leg together first (2 part epoxy glue) and let it cure for 24hrs. this gives it a pretty good bond and you're not likely to break it when handling.
• Then I glue on the hip. Now my top tip is to have it side to level with a small rake to the front 2-5 degrees. I found if you do have a a big tilt it might look fine in the intended pose but as torso rotates it'll look awkward, I guess that because in reality the hip moves to compensate. Prop the hip and leg up gingerly and allow the glue cure.
• Last to be glued is the other leg. I do a second dry fit to make sure it fits into the hips ball joint with out pulling up or down. Then working on the hard flat surface I glue the knee and ankle at the same time you could glue the hip ball too but I like to leave it unglued from painting. I put the leg assembly together propped together with hip/leg assembly.
• This should net you a wobble free set of legs with a level hip joint. However things can go wrong parts might get knocked while setting etc. You have some options break them apart which is risky, if you going to do that do it within 24hrs given the glue bond can actually be stronger than the resin. The other is heat the legs with a hair dryer/hot water resin with soften you should be able to bend them into the right shape (you can see it here with the elementals they are all the same model just been bent into different poses)

Its much better than trying to glue everything at once and having to prop up a big wobbly game of jenga and hope for the best. If you're really a masochist and wanted to drive yourself mad you could make a balanced jogging pose you'd need to shave some parts down and section the front foot, I reckon it would stand up with out the need for a base.

I know updates are a bit slower the kids both came down with something at more or less keep one or the other up at night crying/vomiting/coughing/fever for nine days at the same time are child care ran for the hills all of which kinda turned me into the weeping dead. I also have to remake a 3 moulds for the HBK because they became torned up super quick (silicone was too soft) and I also have to fix the seal (read make a new seal from scratch) for the vacuum pot all extra time not accounted for.

Back from holiday - update

So I'm back from my holiday (first one in years). I had alot of non model stuff to catch up on hence my absence. I'm really happy to see the great reaction the HBK received it was very flattering.

I'm just starting to get back into modelling and felt like doing something for myself to get my intrest going. I decided paint the mini's I had made a while back the mechs are printed and the plane were the first thing I made on the CNC

None are super detailed (the 3D prints were fudgy and the plane was a low detail design) they were made as of amusement for me.

The planes are waiting to be sealed, some gloss for the canopy's and water effect finished. The mechs just have their base colours.

MWO Desert camo Hunchback

This was painted for an exhibition and the first HBK to be finished. Because it's going to be in an exhibition, so assembly consideration had to be given. The aerial and small head laser have been omitted and the hump has been glued to reduce the chance accidents as a result of clumsy handling.

All made in house on a Roland MDX40a 4 axis mill, recast and painted by myself. Record time for painting on this one 4days from bare resin put in some very long hours and blurred vision!

I know this is an odd thing to be please with, but I particularly like how bicep decal came out any one whose had to put a decal non-flat surface will tell you its a pain, but this one came out right first time. The decal was place on the bicep allowed to dry then sealed with gloss then the floating parts were cut with a scalpel and lowered into recess of the X emboss, sealed in with gloss and shaded with the rest of the model.

click on the image, then right click and view image for the full rez version or view on my DA page
deviantart.com/MWO-Desert-camo-Hunchback

Approx 16cm to 16.5cm tall (Table top HBK for comparison).
1/60 scale.
Waist, shoulders and elbows articulate.
Legs can be glue in different articulated positions.
31 separate parts go into making the model.

Comparison with my earlier Centurion.

Have questions? here's the RD email

HBK painting

Just thought I'd share this progression montage of the HBK so far a days worth of painting (+1day for prep and glue). I can't tell you how good it feels to be into painting and loving how good the model looks now it has some colour.

This is a one tone scheme (my first) I had to paint this one differently because I didn't have lots of time to wait for paint to dry. It'll get the usual weathering treatment and I plan to give the metal parts on show here a dust of gunmetal to brighten them.

I need to get this wrapped up asap as it's destined for a trade show end of the month. Two/three days worth of painting to go but I off on holiday this week so I need to cram as much in before hand.
.

I'm Lord of the Boxes!!

I'm also probably abit high on hot glue

Woot end of a tedious day of cutting up cardboard and rolling plasticine but rest of the mould boxes made ready (hopefully) for the delivery of some RTV tomorrow.

Clear RTV test

So I waited and waited for that clear RTV (rubber) sample to arrive. Frustratingly it arrive late on Thursday to late to get a 5kg order in before the weekend >.<

This rtv is 2x the price of the normal stuff so i really did have to wait to see how the test come out (a rare case of patience for me) and I'm glad I did. What I knew is this was 40shore hardness (compared to the the 20-25shore I normally have) but with not point of reference there was know way of know how hard it would be.

So I made Up 2 mould boxes (abit a little too over sized). As soon as I weigh out the main part in I knew it wasn't right for me. The Silicone was thick, really thick it was hard to degas and I had to take great care in pouring it then degassed the mould again and it still looked like I couldn't pull a high enough vacuum to pull all the bubbles out. The RTV also clung to the bucket which left a frustrating wastage which meant I could only pour 1 test mould.

Surprisingly the cured mould didn't have any bubbles in it so I guess the degassing did work and it was only surface tension bubbles. Here you can see the ghostly Hunchie shin suspended in the silicone (the pen was to help the camera focus).

Now the fun and games started holy fruit of the ball is this stuff hard and it didn't help the mould was a bit too thick either. Even with the help of my wife it was a job to cut this mould. In the end I had to trim 1.5cm off the parting line side just to get it to relax it enough to cut down to the part. At one point i was thinking I would just have to cut the part out but lucky that wasn't the case

The mould its self is actually quite good (as you can see below) it aligns nicely and this was the most tricky part to cast but all the venting and bridging (2vents 6brigdes) help the bubbles out. However it takes considerable strength to pull the part out of the mould which is a fingernail killer.

So in conclusion it made a nice mould but boy is it too hard to use esp if every mould was made like this. Glad I didn't buckle and buy a 5kg tub it would of hurt my wallet and my poor fingers.

I did order another clear rtv sample from another company it was 13shore (so softer) that comes on Monday but I really running out of time to get these moulds done so I've also ordered 5kg of the blue stuff just get her done because I know it produces good moulds only downside is your cutting blind.

HBK Moulds design, casting and such

So as per last weeks post I decided to keep everything in house.

Back when I was learning to cast 6 years ago the main assumption was you made 2 part moulds casting. The people started to use split moulds because it was far quicker and you could get really close to a perfect cast since the parting seam was only partway around. The technique was new to most people there wasn't much in the way of info and after reading up about it that's how I set out to make my moulds. There were a lot of blanks left to fill in and my technical skill and tool box were basic.

I started with plastic card mould boxes sealed with plasticine but they were iffy and often leaked, so I switched to Plastic cups they were pretty good and fast to make moulds. I also got lazy when it came to adding proper venting to allow air bubbles out because I had vacuum pump I could degas the resin before pressure casting it. And that worked well for the more simple MW4 models they were blocky with surface detail. But I found more and more the MWO models had more detail, undercuts and fins etc that technique was becoming inadequate.

One good thing that came from trying to source a caster. One of the companies I spoke to (a well regarded judging by the list of commercial companies that use their services) came straight out and said he be to expensive to do the work.  But he was happy give some advice so told him some of the problems I had, he walked me through how he'd do it. There was no magic trick on how time consuming it would be to cast but there were lots of ways I could improve my moulds. I then spent a fair bit of time researching what he had told me.

• No more being a slacker I had to add venting, make sure there's no big spots where bubbles can sit. Time spent here pays dividends over fickle casting later on.
• Second I had to make square moulds because they align better. Since my earlier attempts I had bought a glue gun and this it a perfect way to quickly seal cardboard mould boxes but does take allot more time than just dropping stuff in a cup.
• Then I had to thicken my mould walls much more than I had been doing before plus extra thickness on the side to be cut
• Draw a straight parting line then with the help of someone holding the rubber taught (I always did it by my self) and a fresh thin scalpel blade make a cut waving back and fourth across the line
• One of the guides I found on line recommended cutting as little as possible at first and using a mould release to help the master out. Then its a case of easing the parting line down till you get a happy balance.
• Lastly he recommended going with a clear RTV(rubber) so you can land you parting line perfectly around any details. 6 years ago it wasn't that common to hear people talk about clear rubber. I started with the blue stuff like most and stuck with what I knew worked. I did some research into the clear RTV. It's not as easy to work with its allot harder and it can react badly to certain substances such as super glue. I ordered some samples of which one company never got back to me and the other one will send me something but unfortunately the guy (apparently there is only one) who decants the rtv is away on holiday till Tuesday. bummer

Any way I had some blue RTV and I decide to mould the masters that had simpler parting lines. So I followed all the above advice and waited for the moulds too cure. I had to wait 2 days for the kids to be out and the wife to be in a helpful mood to cut open the moulds. The resin also has to be cast on a dry day but we had 3 days of torrential down pours to wait out.

HBK foot mould

Any way the wait was worth it, the parts came out pretty much exactly how the masters went in, a few some small bubbles but you can't vent everything, the parting lines were really tight you couldn't even where tell there were but for some thin flashing that just brushed off, I'm so happy how they came out. Since I've used mould release the parts went into the sonic cleaner with some organic degreaser, they'll get a soap bath and a rinse after that (you don't want some grease spoiling a nice paint job).

As soon as I can get some more RTV I can finish of the rest of the moulds and get a whole model cast.

Making mould preparations

I've not forgotten you guys or the HBK. I was just chasing my tail for 2 weeks.

I was looking to outsource making the moulds HBK as some of you might remember I hurt my thumb and it was a little more serious than I joked I worried I wasn't fit enough to make moulds/casts.

I know from went I first started that good and well price mould makers are mythical, the truth is there's very little profit in mould making since its so labour intensive and that's why I originally started casting myself. Needless to say looking for quotes resulted in having to make a 3hr trip to this 'professional' workshop where I had to wait 30mins for someone leave before I enter and receive my model. It was totally avoidable and cost me 2weeks.

Anyway it just reaffirmed that everything is best done in house where I have total control. The other good news is after going to my GP x3 and getting no where, I went privately to see a dermatologist and she fixed me up. Apparently I touched something that cause an acute allergic reaction (like a heavy metal) some cream and a few days my thumbs much better.

So I've start the process of making pour spouts for everything. Its fiddly task but I'm going to take it slow and really go for making good moulds that cast well. On the centurion I regretted not making better moulds it made for tricky casting so spend a penny here save a pound (in time) later on. So lots of vents/big chunky moulds/tape bridging are the order of the day.

Forward planning - multi tasking leopard

Currently the CNC machine is sitting idle which is no good. It might as well do something with it so with that in mind last year I had the Leopard dropship printed but I was never happy with how it came out (its what prompted me to got to CNC) so I decided to abandon it. But I still have this great Leopard dropship 3D model ready other and sub dividing for CNC.


Before I invest a small amount of time in it I want to know the level of interest in a table top scale Drop ship. If there's not enough hands up then I'll probably just make it a personal project. As there no patron the price would probably be £200 which given its bigger than a thunderhawk from forgeworld (£410) and I'm not a professional shop I feel that's fair. That price didn't come out of thin air either the leopard is scaled bigger than any 1/60 scale assault mech plus it has an interior which just increases the amount of work but it'll be the first Battletech dropship to have a working bay that doesn't look like a soap bar or a football.

And for those who havent seen it together;

If you want one contact me on the address below. I'll keep a list and if I get enough people interested then it'll be a go I'll CNC it. A deposit of 25% before making moulds and the balance upon dispatch. I expect that it'll be ready to ship around new year if not earlier assuming there's brisk interest.

Feel free to share this post if you wish to drum up interest

Samples made for Roland

So just a breif update while I take care of some stuff a semi model related post.

Roland the company that supplied my CNC machine ask if I would provide them with technical samples (recognisable part) that can be produced. So I whipped a few of these up and they'll be displayed in their technical departments in UK, Germany and Japan.

They look interesting to me and thought you guys might like to see;

It's the lower arm meshes grouped as machined just from 1 side.

Must be Humpday - MWO hunchback

I've been promising updates for a while this ones going to be a whopper.

What we have above is the break down of the model into its component parts about 30 in all. Below is the model held together with pins and double sided tape (it can't be glue but it still needs to be cast) hence why its a bit droopy. It also has a black painted resin lower leg because those are mirrored parts.

Then we have the 4 variants top left to bottom right 4G/4P/4SP and the 4J

And finally we have a 360 of the sway back.

The model is approx 16.5cm tall to central mass.
- Static articulation (glued joints);

• ankles
• knees
• hips 

- Free articulation;

• waist
• shoulders
• upper elbow
• lower* elbow (if you remove the tab). 

- Swappable parts

• The AC20 (hot swap)
• Laser (hot swap)
• LRM humps (hot swap)
• Right SRM (hot swap)
• Left SRM requires the the rear barrel be left off and removal of this section of the torso;

In all it took 4months of machining to design and make the model at quite a hard pace. I have a few cockups along the way including having to machine the front torso twice (particularly painful given its 4day machining time) the laser hump had to be redone restarted because the block was off centre by a few mm. Tiredness lead to 3 broken bits which was frustrating but I've learn not to allow my self to be rushed or work tired.

I feel this is another big step up in terms of finish and design. More telling is I feel satisfaction with the process used to make the model. The Roland MDX-40a performs excellently in its task. I think I will change software, but its a case if doing some research before learning yet another program. I think I will also treat myself to a set of custom Mill ends (bits) to make my life easier all 25mm in reach so I'll only have to calculate depth once while writing out tool paths.

Anyone wishing to ask a question or get in touch about the models I make feel free to drop me an email on;

 

Oh and hey looks whose 'Wang is popping up all over MWO website and 'Dev Vlogs'

Another brief update

Now that my hand is feeling much better I'm clearing the back log of surface finishing. Any imperfections are marked with a pencil and putty applied them smooth off. Is a messy stage but thankfully not much to do. Making sure the humps swap without to much effort (since those that want to hot swap wont wish to be yanking on a painted model)

Tomorrow I'd do a fine 1200grit pass give everything a good wash and scrub then probably a primer coat and another buff with 1200grit.
.

Drive by update - pew pew pew

So as not to show a lack up updates here's a schlong of hunchie humps;

This actually means I've finished all the machining as of yesterday (8weeks of machining). There's all the mill spru to remove and some fettling make sure those humps go down easy because at the moment they are tight fit so I need take alittle off so swapping isn't going to scratch up a painted model

The left SRM is 2 parts front/back after carefully weighing up how to execute the design, it wont be hot swappable. The main reason is there's a protrusion at the side torso that has to be removed for it to fit I tried to work around it but it left the part with a gaping hole at its weakest point. So the plan is if you want the SRM build you will have to remove a part of the torso then glue The SRM on.  (however I'm sure with some determination you could get something workable)

I'm still suffering with my thumb I tried to get back to work with it when I though it was ok but split it open after 1hr >:| The doc says I have to keep it moisturised give it more of a chance to heal. Once I get stuff cleaned up I will add a bunch of retro respective updates.